
Kabuki master Shozo Sato applies makeup to actor Michael Goldberg as he discusses about how makeup is applied and how colors and lines help suggest character. In Kabuki theater, makeup is used to express a character’s personality.
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In the early 1600s, while Elizabethan drama revolutionized English theater, another groundbreaking form of theater was captivating audiences in the Far East. Kabuki theater, a spectacular blend of singing, dancing, and acting, emerged in Japan at the beginning of the Edo Period (about 1603). During this peaceful period, Japan experienced prolonged economic security, which gave rise to an affluent and visible merchant class (the chounin).
Chounin audiences, newly wealthy and hungry for entertainment, considered Kabuki theater to be an appealing alternative to traditional Noh theater, an understated and aristocratic theatrical experience using dance and masks. Though Kabuki theater borrowed many elements from the Noh tradition, it cast off the elegance and refinement of Noh theater in favor of lavishness and exaggeration. From the start, the ruling Tokugawa government believed Kabuki was a corrupting influence that encouraged the intermingling of classes and made many attempts over the years to control its influence.
Kabuki literally means “sing, dance, skill.” A shrine dancer named Okuni is credited with giving birth to Kabuki by performing a series of dances in a dry riverbed in Kyoto. Early Kabuki (Onna Kabuki) consisted mainly of dance performances done by women. In 1629, the governing officials deemed these dances a threat to public morals and prohibited women from performing in Kabuki. Following the edict, young men’s Kabuki (Wakushu Kabuki) became popular, but it too was outlawed.
In Kabuki theater, actors wear elaborate costumes and makeup representing traditional Japanese culture. Along with movement and vocal expression, highly stylized, nonrealistic makeup and wigs are used to create characters. The traditional method of Kabuki makeup is referred to as Kumadori. Kuma means “lines or wrinkles” and dori means “draw.” Kumadori makeup rapidly signals information to the audience about the personality of a character. Each Kabuki character type has its own clearly defined Kumadori makeup; there are approximately 81 different types of Kumadori in use today. Makeup preparation begins with the actor coating his face with a white base. Color is then used to express emotion and temperament. As Kabuki master Shozo Sato explains, “Kabuki makeup is like a living painting.”
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